Backpacking Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area

One of the coolest things about Michigan is the Great Lakes. Off the coast of northern Lake Michigan is the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area; nestled within Michigan's Manistee National Forest. This unique and ecologically significant landscape spans 3,450 acres and boasts four miles of undeveloped shoreline along Lake Michigan. Where towering sand dunes meet the water's edge. These dunes, some reaching up to 140 feet high, are part of the larger Big Sable Dunes complex and are home to diverse plant and animal life. The area's unique ecosystem includes freshwater interdunal wetlands and mixed hardwood forests. Visitors can explore this wilderness through hiking, camping, and wildlife viewing, immersing themselves in the natural beauty and tranquility of this special place. I've backpacked here several times, and it's such a special place that I wanted to take Stacey for her first backpacking experience. I couldn't think of a better location.

View from the sand dunes overlooking Lake Michigan

There are two parking locations at Nordhouse Dunes for backpackers. The north parking area is by the Lake Michigan rustic camping loop, which has 99 rustic sites. The other is simply a parking area on the south side of the wilderness. In the past, I've always chosen to park at the south parking lot and hike in from there. For some unknown reason, this time I decided to park at the north parking lot by the campground. I had described the area to Stacey as peaceful and quiet, with only the sound of waves crashing and birds chirping during our hike through the woods. I had only ever hiked in and out from this parking area, never venturing as far as the north campground. Well, that was not the case at the north campground, or perhaps it was just the time of year we went. We arrived at an almost full parking lot, which I found odd. We geared up, used the real toilets for the last time for a couple of days, and headed off to the trail.

You have to cross a small river on the beach side of the parking lot to reach the trailhead. Once on the trail, it was like an all-out college party. People were carrying coolers full of beer and even kegs along the tree line. Stereos were blasting music, and people were playing yard games. This was not the Nordhouse Dunes I remembered. About three-quarters of a mile down a sandy, difficult-to-navigate trail, there was a full-sized tent with two kegs sitting outside and a bunch of college kids playing beer pong on folding tables. Luckily, as we hiked farther down the trail, the college dorm room party atmosphere thinned out, and it started to resemble what I had described to Stacey.

Despite the crazy college kids, the hike is truly beautiful. You have two options: hike along the tree line before the dune turns to the beach, or take the trail on a large dune overlooking the tree line. We chose the elevated trail. Both trails are all sand and can be challenging.  We hiked roughly two miles in and found a place to camp in the dunes. You can camp anywhere as long as it's 400 feet from Lake Michigan and 100 feet from the trail.

We set up camp, which meant hanging our packs, pitching our tent, and inflating our sleeping pads. Since there was no rain predicted, we opted not to put the rain fly on the tent, hoping to see stars.

Dinner was Mountain House Pad Thai and Yellow Curry with rice. We both ate half of each and then exchanged meals so we could enjoy both flavors. We gathered some firewood and built a fire to watch the sunset.

The following day's plan was to hike to the Big Sable Point Lighthouse, about four miles south. We packed everything into the tent and put the rain fly on to deter potential thieves. Stacey packed up; at this time, she only had a larger daypack, not a proper backpacking pack.

It was a cool hike along the water's edge. Tip: If the waves aren't too big, walk as close as you can to the water; the sand is much harder and easier to hike on for the four miles.

About halfway there, we saw what appeared to be a shipwreck washed up at the water's edge. I reached out to the National Forest Service but didn't receive a reply, and I didn't get GPS coordinates.

I've always loved lighthouses and at one time wanted to see all 129 of them in Michigan. Anyway, if there's a lighthouse near where I'm traveling, I try to see it. Big Sable Point Lighthouse, a majestic 112-foot tower, stands proudly on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan within Ludington State Park. Constructed in 1867, this iconic beacon has guided mariners through the treacherous waters off Big Sable Point for over 150 years. Originally built with Cream City brick, the lighthouse was later encased in steel plating for protection from the elements. Its distinctive black and white pattern serves as a daymark, while its powerful light continues to be an active navigational aid.

We had lunch—jerky, nuts, and my famous trail mix—and refilled our water bottles in Lake Michigan. The water is so clean that you feel like you could drink straight from the lake. However, unless you want uncontrollable…Shits…for a few days, I recommend filtering your water. We use a Sawyer Squeeze, which is fast and removes 99.9% of all bacteria. Then, it was back on the four-mile hike to our campsite. We did GPS our camping location, or we would never have found it. Once back, we decided to move to a spot not far away with a better view of Big Sable Point Lighthouse.

The sky was starting to turn cloudy, so we built a fire and had dinner. We spent the evening chatting and…well, let's just say we enjoyed the solitude.

As with all trips, the departure day is always the nicest, with beautiful blue skies begging you to stay another day. Unfortunately, we both had to work the next day. We headed out for the roughly two-mile hike back. There's this really cool tree at the top of a huge hill. It might not be special to anyone else, but Stacey and I thought it was cool. We continued down the trail, now passing what appeared to be hungover college kids. Beer cans were everywhere, and tents had been abandoned. I can now see why they are talking about closing this area for dispersed camping. I was very disappointed by this part of the dunes.

That Really Cool Tree

Other than the blatant disrespect for nature at the beginning and end of this trip, it was a great first backpacking trip for Stacey. If we go again, we will definitely park on the south side and avoid the party scene.  And Stacey's tip, good socks, Smartwool are our favorites and some moleskin for any hotspots you may get on your feet.  Hiking in sand can be tough but good socks and moleskin go a long way to keeping your feet in good shape on the trail.